Home |
Full Mods List
| Pictures | Videos | Achievements
| Contact
Me
This is basically what I ported. It's a rough drawing, but it gives you the idea.
Note: Please read these
instructions in there entirety before attempting to proceed. This 'write up' is
only for information purposes only. I am not responsible for anything that you
mess up.
Since I get 5 questions per day on intake port work, I thought I'd do a write up
on my thoughts on port work on a VE30DE.
First, I highly recommend you buying a Deluxe Porting Kit from
www.summitracing.com .
Standard Abrasives makes the best porting kit. But a cheaper one can be gotten
by just buying the summit brand kit. I think it's $30-40 for the kit with ALL
the bits you'll ever need for every porting project. I LOVE those sandpaper
cartridge rolls that are shaped like a cone. It looks like a cone shaped roll of
toilet paper, except that it's sand paper and not soft toilet paper. Don't get
the two confused or you might be finding out what a proctologist does for a
living. These bits work better than any other bits I've ever tried. And I've
tried them all.
------------------
Here are some kits on SummitRacing.com that I think would be perfect for this
project:
Standard Abrasives Port Kit SAI-260001 $39.88 (The kit I used and i think the
best kit you can buy)
Standard Abrasives make other port kits, but I don't know what bits they come
with so I can't recommend them:
SAI-260007
SAI-260012
Summit Racing Porting and Polishing Kit SUM-G1060 $28.39 (It looks like this kit
will work just fine but it doesn't come with a polishing bit)
-------------------
Next, you'll need a die grinder or electric rotary grinder that uses 1/4" shank
bits. A really high speed drill might work ok. But try to atleast have something
that's able to spin at 15,000 rpm or more. I have a rotary grinder that spins
that 30K rpm, which is too much for some port work. I would recommend a variable
speed electric rotary grinder or variable speed air powered die grinder. I
HIGHLY recommend that you stay away from Dremel tool 1/8" shanks. Those small
shank bits break WAY too easy and you'll go through $50 in bits and a lot of
headaches just to do a very crappy port job.
From my pics, I'm sure you can see how to port. I highly recommend having a
spare TB. A spare upper intake might help just in case, but there's nothing that
can really go wrong with matching the intake port opening.
About the TB (throttle body), I got a bench vise, tightened it down so the TB is
sitting at an angle that you can work with. Then start going to town on that
thing. Don't bare down too much, just take it slow and work your way towards the
TB plate. DO NOT touch anything part where the TB plate seals. Just keep the
plate closed at all times and port up to the plate. Expect to take atleast 5
hours to do a NICE port job. Then you can attach the polishing bit that comes in
the kit and polish that TB to a mirror finish. :) Flip the TB over and do the
backside of it. You won't port nearly as much metal as you just did on the front
side.
The stock backside of the TB should be 61mm. I think I ported mine to 63mm. As
for the front, I'm not sure what the before and after measurements were, but the
TB opening was pretty sharp. :) Just port as much metal as you safely can
without poking throught the TB wall.
Now, you have to match the intake manifold to what you just ported. Stuff lots
of lent free shop towels in the intake manifold while it's still on the car.
Stuff some more for safe measure. Make sure you stuff enough that no metal dust
can get past the towels. I used blue paper shop towels. Take a measurement of
the backside of the TB with a vernier caliper or a ruler, I guess. :) Then mark
with a sharp pen or pencil on the upper intake manifold (IM) so you know how
much to port. Then start matching it. This part of the process should only take
about 30 minutes to port. It's pretty simple since you don't have to remove much
metal. You might have to trim the stock TB gasket a little to get it to fit in
the new port.
Now after you think you have gotten close, get two TB bolts and hook up the TB
securely so it doesn't flop around. Open the TB plate and feel in there with
your finger and see where there is a lip. There should be a lip all around, so
remove the TB and port some more in those areas.
It's not a good idea to port too much from the IM b/c that would create a little
dip (or cliff) that the air has to flow over and it might swirl the air in a
fashion that's not good for performance. You want the TB to IM transistion to be
as perfect as possible. No upward or downward lip.
After you have the IM matched to your freshly ported TB, get a shop vacuum and
suck out as much metal dust as you can before you try removing the paper towels.
Clean it up really nice and then slowly remove the paper towels and then inspect
the IM for more metal dust. Suck it all out and wipe the inside clean. A little
metal dust won't hurt, but as picky as I am, I made sure it was perfectly clean.
Home | Full Mods List | Pictures | Videos | Achievements | Contact Me
Copyright © 2005 by Innovative Web
Design.
All rights reserved.
For comments or problems with this site, please contact Webmaster
Updated on 9/15/05