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This is basically what I ported. It's a rough drawing, but it gives you the idea.

 

My most powerful VE30DE
 

My ported throttle body compared to the stock one

Stock TB
 

ported TB

 

same ported TB with open valve

 

The die grinder I used.  A bit big, but it worked great with that cone shaped sand paper bit.

Stuff Lint-Free Paper Towels in the intake REALLY good. Make sure you keep out all the metal dust
 

Bolt up the ported TB to feel for a lip in the airflow.  If you feel a lip, grind it like so.  Once the lip is gone, it will matched to the newly ported TB.

The final product.  Hard to tell.... muwahaha, what you don't know... will hurt you.

 

Note: Please read these instructions in there entirety before attempting to proceed. This 'write up' is only for information purposes only. I am not responsible for anything that you mess up.

Since I get 5 questions per day on intake port work, I thought I'd do a write up on my thoughts on port work on a VE30DE.

First, I highly recommend you buying a Deluxe Porting Kit from www.summitracing.com . Standard Abrasives makes the best porting kit. But a cheaper one can be gotten by just buying the summit brand kit. I think it's $30-40 for the kit with ALL the bits you'll ever need for every porting project. I LOVE those sandpaper cartridge rolls that are shaped like a cone. It looks like a cone shaped roll of toilet paper, except that it's sand paper and not soft toilet paper. Don't get the two confused or you might be finding out what a proctologist does for a living. These bits work better than any other bits I've ever tried. And I've tried them all.

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Here are some kits on SummitRacing.com that I think would be perfect for this project:

Standard Abrasives Port Kit SAI-260001 $39.88 (The kit I used and i think the best kit you can buy)

Standard Abrasives make other port kits, but I don't know what bits they come with so I can't recommend them:

SAI-260007
SAI-260012

Summit Racing Porting and Polishing Kit SUM-G1060 $28.39 (It looks like this kit will work just fine but it doesn't come with a polishing bit)

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Next, you'll need a die grinder or electric rotary grinder that uses 1/4" shank bits. A really high speed drill might work ok. But try to atleast have something that's able to spin at 15,000 rpm or more. I have a rotary grinder that spins that 30K rpm, which is too much for some port work. I would recommend a variable speed electric rotary grinder or variable speed air powered die grinder. I HIGHLY recommend that you stay away from Dremel tool 1/8" shanks. Those small shank bits break WAY too easy and you'll go through $50 in bits and a lot of headaches just to do a very crappy port job.

From my pics, I'm sure you can see how to port. I highly recommend having a spare TB. A spare upper intake might help just in case, but there's nothing that can really go wrong with matching the intake port opening.

About the TB (throttle body), I got a bench vise, tightened it down so the TB is sitting at an angle that you can work with. Then start going to town on that thing. Don't bare down too much, just take it slow and work your way towards the TB plate. DO NOT touch anything part where the TB plate seals. Just keep the plate closed at all times and port up to the plate. Expect to take atleast 5 hours to do a NICE port job. Then you can attach the polishing bit that comes in the kit and polish that TB to a mirror finish. :) Flip the TB over and do the backside of it. You won't port nearly as much metal as you just did on the front side.

The stock backside of the TB should be 61mm. I think I ported mine to 63mm. As for the front, I'm not sure what the before and after measurements were, but the TB opening was pretty sharp. :) Just port as much metal as you safely can without poking throught the TB wall.

Now, you have to match the intake manifold to what you just ported. Stuff lots of lent free shop towels in the intake manifold while it's still on the car. Stuff some more for safe measure. Make sure you stuff enough that no metal dust can get past the towels. I used blue paper shop towels. Take a measurement of the backside of the TB with a vernier caliper or a ruler, I guess. :) Then mark with a sharp pen or pencil on the upper intake manifold (IM) so you know how much to port. Then start matching it. This part of the process should only take about 30 minutes to port. It's pretty simple since you don't have to remove much metal. You might have to trim the stock TB gasket a little to get it to fit in the new port.

Now after you think you have gotten close, get two TB bolts and hook up the TB securely so it doesn't flop around. Open the TB plate and feel in there with your finger and see where there is a lip. There should be a lip all around, so remove the TB and port some more in those areas.

It's not a good idea to port too much from the IM b/c that would create a little dip (or cliff) that the air has to flow over and it might swirl the air in a fashion that's not good for performance. You want the TB to IM transistion to be as perfect as possible. No upward or downward lip.

After you have the IM matched to your freshly ported TB, get a shop vacuum and suck out as much metal dust as you can before you try removing the paper towels. Clean it up really nice and then slowly remove the paper towels and then inspect the IM for more metal dust. Suck it all out and wipe the inside clean. A little metal dust won't hurt, but as picky as I am, I made sure it was perfectly clean.


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Updated on 9/15/05